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Category: Scrapbooking Tutorials

How-to guides for digital scrapbooking and memory keeping – layouts, albums and techniques.

  • How Does Digital Scrapbook Paper Work? Files, Sizes and How to Open Them

    How Does Digital Scrapbook Paper Work? Files, Sizes and How to Open Them

    A digital scrapbook or junk journal paper is an image file, not a sheet of paper. You download it, open it like a photo, and then either place it in an app as the background of a page or print it at home. Ours come as JPG files at 300 DPI, and the matching elements come as transparent PNGs.

    That is most of the answer. The rest of this guide covers what is actually in the download, how to open the files on a computer, iPad or phone, and what to do when something looks wrong.

    What is digital scrapbook paper?

    It is a high-resolution picture of a paper design: a texture, a pattern or a painted background. Because it is a file, you can use the same paper as many times as you like, on screen or in print.

    In an Artful Safari kit the files split into two types:

    • Papers are JPG files. They are solid rectangles with no transparency, because a background does not need any.
    • Elements, frames and alphabets are transparent PNG files. The see-through areas let you lay a frame or a leaf over a paper without a white box around it.

    What size are the papers?

    Two sizes, depending on the kit:

    • Digital scrapbook papers are 12 x 12 inches. At 300 DPI that is 3600 x 3600 pixels.
    • Junk journal papers are 11 x 8.5 inches, which is US Letter. At 300 DPI that is 3300 x 2550 pixels.

    Elements vary in size, because a torn strip and a full frame are not the same shape. Everything is 300 DPI, which is the usual resolution for printing at full size without blur.

    Grid of sixteen Folklore Forest junk journal papers: dark botanical patterns with mushrooms, ferns and moths, misty pine forests and teal bokeh backgrounds, labelled 11 x 8.5 inches, prints edge to edge on US Letter
    Folklore Forest junk journal papers. Each one is a JPG sized to US Letter.

    How the download works

    Nothing is posted to you. You pay on the site, and your download links are on the order confirmation page and in your email straight away. On some listings the file you get first is a short PDF with the link inside it: open the PDF, click the link, and the papers are there. Each product page says which.

    Save the files somewhere you will find them again, such as a folder named after the kit. If your computer shows them as a single compressed folder, unzip (extract) it first. Apps can’t see images that are still inside a compressed folder.

    How to open JPG scrapbook paper files

    A JPG is the same format your phone uses for photos, so you don’t need special software to look at one.

    • Windows: double-click the file. It opens in the Photos app. To use it on a page, open it from inside the app you design in instead.
    • Mac: double-click to open it in Preview.
    • iPad or iPhone: save the files to the Files app first, then import them into Procreate or GoodNotes the same way you would add any other image.

    Opening a paper only lets you look at it. To make a page, you bring it into a design app or print it.

    Using the papers in an app

    The files work in Procreate, Photoshop, Canva and GoodNotes, and in anything else that opens JPG and PNG. The method is the same everywhere:

    1. Start with one paper as the background layer.
    2. Add your photo on top, keeping the centre clear for it.
    3. Add a frame around the photo and one or two PNG elements. Repeat two or three motifs across a spread instead of using everything at once.

    For app-specific steps, see making your first page in Canva, layering papers in Procreate and how to make a digital junk journal.

    Printing the papers for a paper journal

    You don’t have to print anything, but the junk journal papers are sized to print edge to edge on US Letter. Print at 100% scale with “fit to page” turned off, on a matte paper. The full settings, including paper weight and A4 sizing, are in how to print junk journal papers at home. If a page comes out the wrong size, see printing junk journal papers at the size you need.

    When something looks wrong

    • A PNG element has a white or chequered box around it. A checkerboard in a preview just means “transparent”. It disappears once the element is placed on a paper. A solid white box usually means the app flattened the image on import. Try importing it as an image or photo, not as a background.
    • The paper looks blurry. Check that you opened the downloaded file and not a preview thumbnail. A 12 x 12 paper should read 3600 x 3600 pixels in the file info.
    • The app can’t find the files. They are probably still in your Downloads folder or still compressed. Extract them and move them into a folder the app can reach, such as Files on an iPad.

    Where to start

    If you want papers and elements that already match, the Folklore Forest Botanical Junk Journal Bundle has coordinated papers as JPG and elements, frames and letters as transparent PNG, all in one palette. The rest of the collection is in Folklore Forest. The same woodland is also a solo game: the Folklore Forest solo journaling game is played with an ordinary deck of playing cards and a journal you already own. For other themes, browse the digital papers and junk journal collections.

    Common questions

    Can I use the papers commercially?

    Yes, for small-business use. You can sell finished products made with the art, such as cards, prints and stickers. You can’t resell or share the files themselves.

    Do I need Photoshop?

    No. Canva, Procreate and GoodNotes all work, and so does any app that opens JPG and PNG.

    Can I use the same paper more than once?

    Yes. It is a file, so it doesn’t get used up. Use it on as many of your own pages as you like.

  • How to return to a solo journaling game after a break

    How to return to a solo journaling game after a break

    To return to a solo journaling game after a break, open your last entry and find the last step you finished. Check the game’s rules before you draw a new card or roll again. If you stopped partway through a prompt, start with the unfinished step.

    Try the bookmark below to save your place. You need your game, your journal and a pen. Write the note on a loose scrap, or on the next blank page in a bound notebook. It is a suggested way to keep notes, not a new rule for your game.

    Find where you stopped

    Read your last entry with the game open beside it. Look for the prompt you used. Check its steps against what you wrote or made. Mark the next step that still needs doing.

    Separate the story from the game record. The story is what your character saw, said or did. The game record is any card, roll, score or choice the rules ask you to keep. Check both before you move on.

    For example, a page may have all its writing but still need the paper piece the prompt asks for. Or you may have drawn a card and stopped before answering its question. Note that point instead of treating the whole entry as finished.

    If the entry is complete, use the rules to find the next step. Keep your cards and other pieces as the game directs. Do not mix used cards back into the deck just because you have been away.

    Copy a pause bookmark

    Write these labels on your scrap or blank page. Fill in each line from your journal and game. Use “none” where there is nothing left to do and “not sure” where the record is missing.

    • Last entry: the page number or title, plus the card or prompt if there is one.
    • Finished: the last step you completed.
    • Still to do: any writing, making or rule step left in that entry.
    • Game record: where to find any scores, used cards or choices you must keep.
    • Next action: the first thing to do when you open the game again.

    Keep “Next action” small and clear. “Answer the last question on page 8” tells you where to begin. “Get back into the story” leaves you with another choice to make.

    Put a loose bookmark beside the entry. If you wrote the note in a bound journal, mark that page with a scrap of paper. You do not need to cut out or move any journal pages.

    A filled-in example

    This is an invented example for this guide, not a player’s journal or an excerpt from a game. Imagine a prompt that asks you to write about a lost key, then add a paper tag to the page.

    Last entry: page 8, “The key by the gate.”

    Finished: wrote where I found the key and who I think lost it.

    Still to do: add the paper tag the prompt asks for.

    Game record: no score or card to track in this made-up example.

    Next action: open page 8 and add the tag.

    On returning, you would add the tag, then check the game for what comes next. You would not need to rewrite the entry before doing that step.

    For your own bookmark, use the task your prompt gives you. If the writing is unfinished, name the question you still need to answer. If only extra decoration is left, label it “optional” so you can tell it apart from a rule step.

    If you cannot remember what happened

    Look back for the missing detail in earlier entries, on the game sheet or among the pieces you kept. Write down what you can confirm.

    For a missing rule detail, such as a score or a used card, check whether the game gives a way to recover it. If it does not, ask the game’s creator before guessing. This bookmark cannot recover a deck order or score that was never saved.

    For a story detail that the rules leave to you, such as a name you invented, you can choose a name now. Add a short note beside the old entry so both pages agree.

    If you would rather start a new story, keep the old pages and mark where it ends. Follow the game’s setup rules for the new start. Give the new journal section a title so the two stories stay separate.

    Pausing Folklore Forest

    Folklore Forest is our solo journaling game about a wood that is forgetting itself. It uses ordinary playing cards across 52 game nights. You draw a card, write an entry and make the page.

    Those nights do not have to be consecutive dates. The product’s “What if I miss a night?” answer states that there is no streak or schedule. Keep your place in the game rather than adding entries for each date you were away.

    Use the bookmark to note which entry you reached and which step comes next. Follow your copy of the rules for the deck and anything you need to track. The bookmark is an optional note, not an extra game component.

    If you are choosing a game, see Folklore Forest’s game and kit options. These are digital downloads for you to print, not a physical journal. The game-only option lets you use your own papers; the bundle adds the matching printable papers and cut-outs.

    For now, open your last entry and write one line: “Next time, I will…” Finish it with the next action you can point to on the page.

  • Solo murder mystery journal: keep clues and guesses apart

    Solo murder mystery journal: keep clues and guesses apart

    Give each entry in your solo murder mystery journal two short headings: What I found and What I think it means. Write the clue under the first heading and your guess under the second. Keep any suspect sheet supplied by your game beside the journal, and update it when the rules tell you to.

    Here is a page you can try before you buy a game. You need a notebook and a pen. The example is a made-up writing exercise for this guide; it is not a scene or clue from The Crimson Parlour.

    To see The Crimson Parlour next to our other games, browse the solo journaling RPGs.

    Try a clue and a guess on one page

    Use this fictional starting point: someone has left a wet coat beside the study door. A guest says they have spent the whole evening by the fire.

    Write these headings on a blank page, then add your own answers. Leave space beneath the guess for a later note.

    Entry: The coat by the study.

    What I found: A wet coat lay on the chair by the study door. One sleeve had been tucked out of sight.

    What I was told: The guest said they had stayed by the fire all evening.

    What I think it means: Perhaps the guest went outside. I do not yet know who owns the coat.

    Still to ask: Whose coat is it?

    Stop when you have written one guess and one open question. That is the end of this exercise. The coat alone does not establish who left it there, when it got wet or whether its owner committed a crime.

    If you want to add to the scene, invent a reply from the guest. Keep it under “What I was told” so you can still see which details came from the scene and which came from a character.

    Let the game decide who is cleared

    When you use this page layout with a published game, follow that game’s rules for clues and suspects. A suspicious detail you add while writing should not change a card result.

    The Crimson Parlour shows why this matters. Its rules count a person as innocent when you find one of their cards. The murderer’s cards are sealed in an envelope at setup, so those cards cannot turn up during the search.

    A character can still have a secret after they have been cleared. Keep that secret in your story, but leave the cleared result on the game’s suspect sheet. In The Crimson Parlour, that sheet is called the Register.

    There is an exception to watch for: an ace ends the night without clearing anyone. Follow the ace’s instructions in the game book. Do not cross out a face merely because you turned a card.

    Make your notes easy to find again

    Number each journal page as you use it. When a person appears again, add a note such as “Earlier entry: page 4.” This works in a bound notebook; you can leave the pages where they are.

    Keep the game’s required records in their stated places. Use your journal’s extra notes for details you want to return to: a name, a remark, a room or an unanswered question.

    If a new clue changes your guess, date a new note beneath the old one. For the coat exercise, you might write: “I now know the coat belongs to the gardener. My first guess about the guest needs another reason.” This is an invented continuation, not a game result.

    To add paper scraps, leave the headings and page numbers uncovered. Put a small scrap beside the entry, or draw a border around the clue. Read the words once more before you glue anything down.

    Read your notes before the ending

    When your game asks for a final choice, turn back to your notes. Which details came from the game? Which were statements by characters? Which were your own guesses?

    Write your choice using the game’s ending instructions. In The Crimson Parlour, you write the accusation before you look through the unused cards or choose to open the sealed envelope. Your journal records why you chose that name.

    Choose a mystery to put in your journal

    The Crimson Parlour standalone game is a solo journaling murder mystery set in a snowed-in Victorian house. It uses playing cards and a journal, with thirteen nights in its story.

    The standalone purchase is a digital download of the game and printable components. Bring a printer, a deck of playing cards, a journal, a pen, scissors, glue and your own paper scraps. The matching decorative papers and ephemera are sold in a separate bundle.

    For the paper side, see our guide to making a junk journal for a solo game. You can also start with the notebook you used for the coat exercise.

  • Halloween Scrapbook Ideas: 7 Easy Ways to Keep Pages Cute

    Halloween Scrapbook Ideas: 7 Easy Ways to Keep Pages Cute

    Most Halloween scrapbook ideas assume orange and black. That works for a haunted house party, but it swamps a photo of a toddler in a pumpkin costume. The page ends up louder than the child.

    These Halloween scrapbook ideas go the other way: plum, lilac, sage and apricot, cute pumpkins instead of skulls, and a page that still says October at a glance. Seven of them, then a worked example at the end.

    All of our Halloween papers and clipart are in the Halloween collection.

    Why pastel Halloween scrapbook ideas work for family photos

    Costume photos are already busy. There is a hat, a cape, a bucket of sweets and usually a doorstep lit by a porch light. A saturated orange background competes with all of that, and the face gets lost.

    Pastel grounds do the opposite. A dusty lilac or a pale sage sits back behind the photo, so the costume carries the colour and the paper carries the season. It also helps if you keep one album for the whole year: October pages in muted colours sit comfortably next to September and November instead of jumping out of the book.

    What still makes a page read as Halloween

    You don’t need orange everywhere for a page to say Halloween. Three motifs do most of the work: a pumpkin, a witch’s hat and a small ghost. Put one of them near the photo and the season is clear, even on a lilac page. The pumpkin has been Halloween shorthand for so long, back to the carved jack-o’-lantern, that even a pale sage one reads as October.

    1. Put a plain wash behind the photo

    Start with the plainest paper you have and put the photo straight on it. A watercolour wash with no print on it gives the photo somewhere quiet to sit. Save the patterned paper for the page behind the wash, or for a strip along one edge.

    This one change clears up most crowded Halloween pages. If you only try one of these Halloween scrapbook ideas, try this one.

    2. Choose one accent colour and repeat it three times

    Pick the colour that shows up in the costume. If the cape is purple, pull plum into a title, a tag and one element. Three small repeats tie the page together better than one large block of colour.

    Apricot is a good second choice because it is the pastel version of pumpkin orange. It keeps the Halloween hint without the glare. For more on pairing muted tones, there is a longer guide to sage green colour pairings that applies here too.

    3. Let the pumpkins carry the theme

    Most good Halloween scrapbook ideas start with a pumpkin. One good pumpkin cluster at the base of a photo does more than ten small ones scattered around it. Anchor the cluster to a corner so it looks like it is sitting on something. A garden gate or a shelf behind the pumpkins gives them a place to be, which reads as a scene rather than stickers.

    Pumpkins wearing witches’ hats are the easiest way to keep things cute. They are a joke a small child gets straight away.

    4. Use word art as the title, not as decoration

    Word art is where a lot of Halloween scrapbook ideas go wrong, because it is tempting to use several. A phrase like “Too Cute to Spook” or “My First Halloween” works best as the page title, placed close to the photo and slightly overlapping it. Keep it to one phrase per page. Two titles fight over which one is the headline.

    For a first Halloween, the date matters more than a clever line. Put the year on a small tag under the title so the page still makes sense when the child is twelve.

    5. Keep the ghosts small

    Ghosts are where cute Halloween scrapbook ideas can tip into creepy. They turn scary when they are big and close to the edge of the page. Small ghosts floating in a corner, or peeking out from behind a photo, stay friendly. Two or three at different sizes give the page some depth.

    The same goes for bats. A trio flying out of one corner looks like movement. A dozen spread across the page looks like wallpaper.

    6. Build a two-page spread from one paper

    For a trick or treat night with lots of photos, use the same patterned paper on both pages and change only the wash behind each photo. The reader sees one evening across the spread, and each photo still gets its own quiet space. Among these Halloween scrapbook ideas, this is the one that makes an album look planned.

    If the photos are dark, and porch-light photos usually are, choose the palest wash you have. There is more on this in the guide to choosing a background paper that doesn’t fight your photograph.

    7. Leave a journaling space on the page

    Halloween pages are the ones people forget to journal on, because the photos seem to say everything. They don’t. Who picked the costume, and which house gave out the full-size chocolate bars, are the details worth keeping.

    Of all the Halloween scrapbook ideas here, this is the one you will be most glad of later. A plain tag is enough, or a rectangle cut from one of the plain plaster-look papers. Tuck it under the pumpkins so it looks like part of the scene.

    Putting these Halloween scrapbook ideas together

    Here is one page built in order, using the Halloween Pumpkin Pals 2 bundle, which I designed in this palette.

    Halloween scrapbook ideas worked example: pastel pattern papers, watercolour washes and pumpkin elements from Halloween Pumpkin Pals 2
    Halloween Pumpkin Pals 2: 30 pattern papers, 20 watercolour washes and 48 elements.
    1. For the background, the pattern paper with lilac wisteria along the top and a black cat among the pumpkins at the bottom.
    2. Behind the photo, a pale blue watercolour wash, trimmed a little larger than the photo and set just above centre.
    3. The costume shot goes straight on the wash.
    4. The iron garden gate with pumpkins sits overlapping the lower right corner of the photo.
    5. “Too Cute to Spook” in apricot lettering goes in as the title, overlapping the top left corner of the photo.
    6. Three purple bats fly out of the top right corner.
    7. A small tag tucked under the gate holds the journaling, with the date and one line about the night.

    That is seven steps on one page. The cat on the paper and the pumpkins at the gate carry the Halloween theme, the wash keeps the photo clear, and apricot repeats three times: in the title, in the peach pumpkins at the gate, and in the date on the tag. The page has no orange and black background, and it still reads as October from across the room.

    Where to take these Halloween scrapbook ideas next

    Try the plain-wash rule first, on a page you already have. Swap the patterned background for a wash behind the photo and see how much the costume comes forward. Once that works, the other six are small adjustments on top of it.

    If you are new to building pages on a screen, the beginner’s guide to digital scrapbooking covers layers and apps, and every piece above opens in Procreate or Canva.

  • Scrapbook Page Layout for an Aquarium Day: 6 Easy Steps

    Scrapbook Page Layout for an Aquarium Day: 6 Easy Steps

    Photos from an aquarium visit bring the same problem to every scrapbook page layout: they are all blue. The tanks are blue, and so is the grey smear where a ray swam past faster than the camera. Snorkelling photos are worse, because the camera was in the water too.

    There is a reason for that. Water absorbs the red end of the light spectrum and leaves the blue behind, according to NOAA’s explanation of why the ocean looks blue. So the photos arrive already tinted.

    If you then reach for blue papers because the theme is the sea, the whole page ends up one colour at one brightness, and it goes flat.

    Working through the page in this order stops that happening. It works for ocean scrapbook page layouts whether the photos came from an aquarium or from snorkelling off the beach.

    For more themed sets like this one, see our scrapbook bundles.

    1. Sort the photos before you choose a paper

    Pick one photo to be the hero. Choose one with a clear shape in it, like a face against the glass or a turtle close to the lens.

    Then choose two or three supporting photos and put the rest aside for another page. A scrapbook page layout with eight near-identical blue photos reads like a contact sheet. With one large photo and a few small ones, the eye knows where to land first.

    2. Layer blue on blue by changing the value

    Value is how light or dark something is once you ignore the colour. Two blues at the same value merge into one shape, however different they look in a paper preview.

    So use papers at three levels of brightness: a pale one as the full-page base, a mid blue cropped to a smaller block, and a narrow dark strip. That is why navy is the most useful paper on an ocean page. A narrow band of navy behind the hero photo gives the eye an edge to find.

    Then squint at the screen until everything blurs. If the photo still stands out as a distinct block, the values are working.

    If it melts into the paper, move the paper lighter or darker. There is more on this test in choosing a background paper that does not fight your photograph.

    Add one warm colour

    An all-blue scrapbook page layout needs something warm to push against, and sand or a soft coral does the job. A strip of sand-coloured paper along the bottom reads as the seabed without you having to draw one. A single peach shell near the photo makes the blues around it look bluer.

    3. Put the hero photo inside a water-shaped mask

    A clipping mask is a black shape that a photo gets clipped to, so the photo only shows where the black is. A rectangle works, but a mask with a cloudy, watery edge makes the photo look as if it is sitting in the water rather than stuck on top of it.

    Match the edge to the photo. A snorkelling shot looking up towards the surface suits a mask with rippled light along its top edge. A tank photo suits one with bubbles rising up one side or seaweed along the bottom.

    In the layers panel, the mask layer goes underneath and the photo layer goes directly above it. In Procreate you tap the photo layer and choose Clipping Mask from the Layer Options menu, and the Procreate Handbook page on masks covers the details. Photoshop, Affinity Photo and Artisan each have their own version, and there is a walk-through for them in how to use clipping masks in digital scrapbooking.

    Once it works, the photo shows only inside the mask’s shape, and you can still move and resize it until the subject sits where you want.

    4. Group the smaller photos in a frame cluster

    Supporting photos look scattered when each has its own frame dotted around the page. A frame cluster groups them for you: several frames already arranged together, with coral and shells tucked around them.

    The openings are transparent, so the photos go on a layer underneath the cluster and show through. Crop each photo close around the one thing it shows, such as a starfish or the sign with the name of the tank.

    5. Where labels and journaling go on a scrapbook page layout

    Words are easier to read when they sit next to the thing they describe. A label with the name of a fish belongs beside that fish’s photo. A label with the date and place can sit on the edge of the hero photo, overlapping it slightly so the two read as one unit.

    Longer journaling needs a surface of its own, and a journal card is the easiest one to use. Write down what the photos cannot show, like who pressed their nose to the glass and which fish ended up with a name.

    Make a pocket strip from journal cards

    If you like pocket page scrapbooking, you can borrow the idea without giving it a whole page. Line up three square journal cards along the bottom of a 12 x 12 page. If your cards are about three inches square, three of them fill most of the width and leave a margin either side.

    Put your journaling on one card and a small photo on another. The third can carry a single element or a word. A row like that gives the scrapbook page layout a firm base, and it gives the reader somewhere to go once they have looked at the photos.

    6. Tuck in the elements and add a title

    On any scrapbook page layout, elements work best when they touch something. Let a strand of seaweed come out from behind the hero photo (put its layer below the photo so part of it is hidden), and let a few bubbles rise from it towards the title. Elements floating with space all around them look pasted on.

    Keep the drop shadows consistent, with the light coming from the same direction on everything. A page where some elements have shadows and some do not looks like a mistake.

    For the title, fit the words to the trip. A snorkelling page might say Beneath the Surface, while an aquarium page can simply name the place you went. A cream title stands out best along the navy strip.

    Putting it together: an aquarium scrapbook page layout

    The Aquarium Life kits I designed have a piece for each of these steps, so here is one scrapbook page layout built with them.

    Aquarium Life Bundle previews for an under the sea scrapbook page layout, with ocean papers, fish elements, frame clusters, journal cards, word art and clipping masks
    The six Aquarium Life kits, which between them hold everything used in this scrapbook page layout.

    Start with the watercolour paper of fish among coral as the base. It is cream with pale blue washes, so it keeps the page light.

    Lay a band of the plain navy paper across the middle. Crop the mid blue bubbles paper to a block a little bigger than the photo and set it on the navy, then clip the hero photo to the mask with light rippling along its top edge and place it on the blue block. A strip of the sand paper along the bottom becomes the seabed.

    The smaller photos go into the frame cluster with the sea turtle, off to one side. Below it, three journal cards make the pocket strip: the ruled card holds the journaling, the card with a starfish in its corner takes a small photo, and the third carries one of the metal-framed labels with the date on it.

    Seaweed and a branch of coral come out from behind the hero photo, bubbles rise towards the Beneath the Surface title, and a navy bow sits on the date label. The bundle has 92 pieces across the six kits, so one trip’s worth of photos can fill several pages without repeating a paper.

    A last check on the scrapbook page layout

    Zoom out until the scrapbook page layout is the size of a thumbnail. You should see the hero photo first, then the title, then the journaling. If one of them is lost in the blue, go back to step two and move a paper lighter or darker.

    Most of the time that one change is all the page needed.

  • Gothic Scrapbook Pages for a Dark Christmas: 6 Easy Rules

    Gothic Scrapbook Pages for a Dark Christmas: 6 Easy Rules

    A gothic scrapbook page is easy to want and awkward to finish. You lay down a black damask ground, add holly and a raven, and by the third layer the page has drifted away from Christmas and landed somewhere near Halloween.

    The fix is almost never more decoration. What has usually gone wrong is contrast, plus the question of where the warm colour is allowed to sit.

    Below are six rules I keep coming back to when I build a gothic scrapbook page for Christmas, with a worked example at the end.

    Why a gothic scrapbook page stops reading as Christmas

    On a bright kit the paper does the festive work for you. Cream and pine green announce the season before you have placed a single element.

    A dark ground announces nothing at all. It hands you atmosphere and takes away every seasonal cue the eye normally leans on, so each cue has to be put back deliberately.

    The second problem is value rather than colour. Value is simply how light or dark a thing is, and charcoal ivy on charcoal paper is technically present and effectively invisible, and a page built from near-misses like that reads as a smudge from across the room.

    What the eye actually reads as Christmas

    Shape carries more of it than colour does. A bauble silhouette or a star with long points will do the job on its own, even in near-black.

    Warmth carries the rest. Put one warm source somewhere on the page, whether that is a candle, a lantern or the rim of a gold label, and the eye reads midwinter indoors rather than a graveyard at dusk.

    Rule 1: commit to one dark ground

    Pick a single dark paper and let it run the whole gothic scrapbook page. Bottle green, charcoal or oxblood all work as that ground. The mistake is using two of them as grounds on the same layout, because then neither one is the background the rest of the page can sit on.

    If you want variety, change the pattern rather than the colour. A damask and a plain sheet in the same bottle green will layer happily, where a bottle green damask over a charcoal plain fights for the eye.

    Plain grounds are worth more than people expect in a gothic scrapbook layout. A photograph on a plain slate sheet with one sprig in the corner looks composed; the same photograph on a busy pattern looks stranded.

    Rule 2: red is a spice, and it should be oxblood

    Bright, saturated Christmas red is the fastest way to make a dark page look like fancy dress. Against black it jumps forward off the paper and starts to buzz at the edges.

    Oxblood, a deep brownish red, does everything red needs to do here. It looks like a red that has been sitting in a dark room for a century, so it reads as festive without shouting.

    Keep it to small things. Berries, a ribbon tail, one bauble and the edge of a torn label add up to enough red for a whole page, and that restraint is what keeps a gothic scrapbook page looking designed.

    Rule 3: put the gold where you want the eye to land

    Tarnished gold behaves like light on a dark gothic scrapbook layout, which makes it the most directional thing you have. Whatever you gild is where the eye goes first.

    So gild on purpose. A gold rim on the frame around your photograph pulls attention to the photograph; gold scattered evenly across the background pulls attention to nothing.

    Two or three small placements are plenty. If you find yourself adding a fourth, take one away from somewhere else instead.

    Rule 4: layer lace over plain, not over pattern

    Black lace on a black damask is the trap everyone falls into once. Both are fine-detailed and roughly the same value, so the lace disappears into the damask and you have spent a layer on nothing.

    Lace needs a quiet neighbour. Lay it over a plain ground, or over an aged cream paper where its edges can actually be seen, and it turns into the Victorian texture a gothic scrapbook page is usually reaching for.

    The same logic applies to toile, marbling and any small repeating print. One busy paper per area of the page, with everything else kept plain underneath.

    Rule 5: age a paper with a blendable, not a brush

    A blendable is a cluster with feathered edges that fade out rather than stopping at a hard line. Drop one at 40 to 60 per cent opacity across a corner and the paper underneath looks older, softer and less like a flat digital fill.

    Blendables also solve the problem of where a gothic scrapbook page ends. A lace band or a holly garland running off the edge of the sheet makes the layout feel continuous, rather than like a rectangle of decoration floating in the middle.

    Use them under your elements, not over them. A blendable on top of a frame fogs the very thing you wanted sharp.

    Rule 6: check a dark gothic scrapbook page on a second screen

    This is the rule most of us skip, and it is the one that costs. Dark layouts look different on every panel they land on, and your own screen is the one flattering the page most.

    Open the finished page on your phone at low brightness. If the raven has vanished into the ivy, brighten that one element on its own layer rather than the whole page, because lifting the brightness of everything will grey out the ground you worked so hard to keep deep.

    If the page is heading for print, expect a dark sheet to come out heavier and flatter than it looks backlit. Leaving a little paper texture visible in the darkest areas gives the ink somewhere to go.

    A worked example: one gothic scrapbook page, built in order

    Gothic scrapbook kit preview showing dark Christmas papers, hellebore clipart, ornate frames and word art plaques
    The six Gothmas kits, built around bottle green, oxblood and tarnished gold.

    Here is the order I build a gothic scrapbook page in, using the papers and cut-outs from my own Gothmas bundle as the example. Any dark kit you already own will follow the same sequence.

    Start with the ground. A bottle green damask fills the whole 12 x 12 inch sheet, and nothing else touches the background from here on.

    Add the frame next, before any greenery. An ornate black arch with a tarnished gold rim goes slightly off-centre, which leaves one side of the page free for layering.

    Then the botanicals, coming in from one corner. Hellebores and a mistletoe sprig tuck behind the frame edge so the arrangement looks like it grew there rather than being posted on afterwards.

    Hellebores are worth knowing about if you are choosing your own. They flower in the middle of winter, which is why the RHS growing guide files them as a midwinter plant and why they belong on a Christmas page more than a rose does.

    Now the red. Three small berry clusters, no bigger than a fingertip each, spaced so they lead the eye around the frame.

    Word art goes last, and it goes small. A plaque reading Merry & Macabre at the base of the frame closes the page, and a blank label beside it leaves room to write the year in by hand.

    That arch shape is borrowed rather than invented. Pointed arches and dark carved ornament came back into Victorian homes through the Gothic Revival, which is the same well these frames are drawn from.

    Where to take it next

    A gothic scrapbook page rewards restraint far more than a bright one does. Two patterns and one warm accent colour will carry a whole album on their own.

    If you want the same mood without the Christmas, the rules transfer almost unchanged to dark academia pages, where the ground is usually ink or oxblood and the light comes from a lamp instead of a candle.

    And if you would rather keep the season but soften the dark, the Victorian Christmas junk journal approach uses aged cream as its ground and puts the black into the ink and the lace instead.

    Build one gothic scrapbook page with these six rules before you commit to a set. Once the palette and the gold placement are settled, the rest of the album follows the same recipe.

  • How to choose a background paper for your photo

    How to choose a background paper for your photo

    Put the same photo on two papers before you add any other detail. Keep the photo the same size and in the same place. Choose the paper that makes the part you care about easy to see. If you prefer a busy paper, try a plain border behind the photo.

    You can do this with loose prints, or with layers in a digital page. Start with papers you already own. The examples below use two released Forest Bark papers and one public-domain photo.

    You can browse our digital scrapbook papers in one place.

    Compare the paper, then try a mat

    These are digital layout examples, not printed tests. The photo, its size and its place stay the same in all three. Only the paper or the cream border changes.

    A. A detailed paper without a border

    Black-and-white mountain photo on grey bark paper, with no border around the photo.
    Forest Bark paper 19 has light and dark marks across the page. Compare those marks with the dark trees along the photo’s lower edge.

    The bark adds detail around an already detailed scene. The photo is still visible, but its dark lower edge meets more dark marks. If your eye keeps moving to the bark, try the next version.

    B. The same photo on a softer paper

    The same mountain photo on pale blue-green Forest Bark paper 8, without a border.
    Paper 8 has a pale blue-green centre. The photo’s dark lower edge stands apart from that lighter area.

    This sheet has less detail next to the photo. It is one option when you want a clear edge without adding a border. A plain sheet could serve the same purpose.

    C. Keep the detailed paper and add a mat

    The same photo on grey bark paper 19, now with a plain cream border on all four sides.
    A cream mat separates the photo from paper 19. The photo itself has not been made larger.

    A mat is a piece of paper, or a digital shape, behind a photo. It extends past the edges to form a border. Here, cream gives the photo a clear edge on all four sides. Try a dark mat too if cream draws more attention than you want.

    The paper numbers refer to the file names in the Forest Bark square paper set. Photo: Ansel Adams, The Tetons and the Snake River, 1942. The USGS source identifies it as public domain. It is used here to show layout choices and is not included in the paper kit.

    Try the comparison with your own photo

    1. Pick the part you want people to notice. It might be a face, a view or a small detail.
    2. Place the photo on two papers. Keep its size and position fixed so you can judge the paper change.
    3. Look at the photo’s edges. Does a dark edge merge into a dark patch? Does a pale edge disappear against a light sheet? Try another area of the paper or add a mat.
    4. Add a short note on a plain patch. In the examples, the date sits on cream. Check that you can read your words at the size you will view or print the page.
    5. Choose before you glue or export. Look at the whole page, then check the photo and writing up close.

    Colour and pattern are choices, not rules

    A bright paper can suit a bold page. A plain background can be a finished choice. A straight strip or an even split between two papers can work too. Choose the version that makes the part of the photo you care about easiest to see.

    For a colour photo, try one paper that repeats a colour in the image and one plain cream or grey paper. Compare them without changing the photo. These black-and-white examples show edges and texture; they do not test colour matching.

    Use the square papers shown here

    The Forest Bark square scrapbook paper kit contains 20 JPG papers at 3600 × 3600 pixels, sized for 12 × 12 inches at 300 DPI. Helene designs the papers. This is a digital download; no printed paper or sample photo is supplied. Check the product page for the current price and download details.

    If you plan to print, a full 12-inch square will not fit on Letter or A4. Use the paper-size and print-settings guide to choose between fitting the whole design and keeping its intended size.

  • How to print junk journal papers at the size you need

    How to print junk journal papers at the size you need

    To print junk journal papers, first choose the sheet size in your print settings. Then decide what matters most: keeping the whole design, keeping its exact size, or putting ink right to the edge. Those are three different choices.

    Actual size does not turn on borderless printing. It tells the app to keep the file’s page size. A printer that leaves a white edge can still leave one at Actual size.

    This guide shows the choices with diagrams. They explain the settings; they are not photos of test prints or screenshots of a printer menu. Your printer may use different names for its controls.

    Choose how to print your junk journal papers

    Fit: keep the full page design

    Choose Fit in Acrobat when you want the PDF page to sit within the space the printer can use. That space can be smaller than the sheet. The page may get smaller or larger, and white space may remain.

    This is a useful starting point for a background you plan to trim. Check the preview before printing. A small tag or card can change size too, so Fit may be the wrong choice when a piece must match a set measurement.

    Actual size: keep the file’s page size

    Choose Actual size when size matters, such as a card meant to fit a pocket. Check that the file page fits your paper and that the parts you need sit inside the area the printer can reach.

    Content that falls outside that area may be cut off. A square design will not become a Letter-shaped page at Actual size. Measure the test print before making more copies.

    Adobe explains these controls in its guide to PDF print size.

    Borderless: aim for ink to the edge

    Borderless is a printer setting. Check your printer manual for the paper sizes and types that support it. Some printers offer it only for certain photo papers or sizes.

    The printer may enlarge the image to cover the sheet. That can cut off details near the edge. Epson explains this in its guide to cropped edges in borderless prints.

    Three print choices for junk journal papers: Fit keeps the full page inside the printable area; Actual size can lose content at the edge; borderless may enlarge and crop

    Diagram: the dashed line marks the area a printer can use. Its size varies by printer. Borderless needs support for the paper you load.

    Printing to the edge is sometimes called full bleed. If your printer cannot do it, print with a white edge and trim it off. The sheet you keep will be smaller. To keep a set final size, you may need a larger sheet and a printer or print shop that can handle it.

    A4 and Letter are different shapes

    US Letter is 8.5 × 11 inches. A4 is 210 × 297 mm, or about 8.27 × 11.69 inches. Turn both sideways and A4 is wider and shorter than Letter. Adobe lists the dimensions in its A4 paper guide.

    Letter and A4 sheets shown in landscape at the same scale, with A4 wider and Letter taller

    The outlines use the same scale. Neither shape can fill the other without space left over, a crop, or a change in shape.

    Load the paper you have, then select that same size in the printer settings. If the file is Letter and the sheet is A4, use the preview to check what Fit or Actual size will do. Do not assume the small difference will leave every edge intact.

    A square paper also needs a choice. You can fit the whole square on the sheet and trim the spare white space. Or crop the design to fill a rectangle, knowing you will lose part of it.

    Check the file, not only the image’s pixel count

    For a PDF, check the page size shown in the file or print preview. For a JPG, check the intended print size in the product listing and in the app you use to print it.

    A pixel count alone does not set the printed size. For example, an image that is 3300 × 2550 pixels works out to 11 × 8.5 inches at 300 pixels per inch. A print app can still scale it. Check the size and crop shown in its preview.

    Print one test page before the set

    Use the downloaded file, rather than a shop preview image. If the kit gives you a PDF and you want to use the Acrobat controls above, open that PDF in Acrobat or Reader. A photo app or browser may offer different controls.

    1. Load one sheet. Use a paper type your printer supports. Match the paper size and type in its settings.
    2. Select one page. Pick a design with some detail near an edge so you can see whether anything is lost.
    3. Choose your goal. Use Fit for the full design, Actual size for a set size, or supported borderless settings for ink to the edge.
    4. Look at the preview. Check the direction of the page, the crop and the white space. Choose portrait or landscape to suit the design.
    5. Print and check it. Let the ink dry as the paper maker advises. Look at the edges and measure any part that must fit a pocket or frame.

    Test on the paper you mean to use for the journal. Its surface can change how the colours look. Check the printer’s paper-weight limit before feeding thicker stock.

    If the test looks right, use those settings for the rest of the pages that share its size. Check again when the next file uses a different page size or shape.

    Fix the result you see

    There is a white edge. Check whether it is built into the design, left by Fit, or required by your printer. Actual size will not remove a printer’s margin. Keep and trim the edge, or check for a supported borderless option.

    The edge of the design is missing. Check for Actual size on a page that is too large, a photo app’s fill/crop option, or borderless enlargement. Try Fit if keeping the full design matters more than its size.

    A card came out too small. Check whether Fit shrank it. Try Actual size with a sheet that can hold the full page, then measure a new test.

    The page faces the wrong way. Match portrait or landscape to the design. Check the preview again after changing the paper size.

    Choose a texture for your next page

    The Forest Bark junk journal papers are the texture set linked in this guide. Check the listing for the current files and page sizes, then test one page with the steps above.

    Once the print is ready, use it under a photo or a piece of writing. Our guide to choosing a background paper shows what to look for when the pattern and photo compete.

  • How to Make a Digital Scrapbook in 7 Easy Steps

    How to Make a Digital Scrapbook in 7 Easy Steps

    Making a digital scrapbook is easier than most people expect. You pick an app, set up a blank page, drop in a background, add your photos and a few decorations, write a line or two, and save it as an image you can share anywhere. No cutting, no glue, and nothing to store in a cupboard.

    Here is how to make a digital scrapbook step by step, start to finish, in an evening. I will keep it plain and practical so you can follow along with your own photos.

    Step 1: choose your app

    Any layout app that works in layers will do. The four most people reach for:

    • Procreate (iPad) suits you if you like drawing and want fine control with an Apple Pencil.
    • Canva (browser or phone) is the friendliest starting point, free to use, and works on almost any device.
    • Photoshop (or Photoshop on iPad) is for people who already know it and want full masking and blend control.
    • GoodNotes suits digital planners and journallers who want their pages to sit alongside notes and diaries.

    Do not overthink this. If you are unsure, open Canva and start. You can always move to something with more depth later.

    Step 2: set up your digital scrapbook page

    Every digital scrapbook page starts as a blank square. The common size is 12 by 12 inches at 300 dpi, which is 3600 by 3600 pixels. That square is the standard because most kits and papers are built to fit it, so your pieces line up without any fuss.

    In Canva you create a custom size and type in 3600 x 3600 px. In Procreate you make a new canvas at 12 x 12 inches, 300 dpi. Whatever the app, aim for that square and you will be in good shape.

    A quick word on layers before you start. A digital page is a stack of see-through sheets. The background sits at the bottom, photos go above it, and decorations sit on top. Keeping each thing on its own layer means you can move, resize or delete any piece without touching the rest.

    Step 3: lay a background paper

    The background is your bottom layer and it sets the mood for the whole digital scrapbook page. Import a patterned or textured paper and stretch it to fill the full square. That single sheet does a lot of the design work for you.

    A couple of things that help here:

    • Pick a background that is not too busy, so your photos still read as the main event.
    • If a pattern feels loud, drop the layer opacity a little to soften it behind everything else.

    Step 4: add your photos and mask them into frames

    Now bring in the photos. Import one, place it where you want it, and resize by dragging a corner so it keeps its proportions.

    Masking is the part that makes a page look finished. A mask lets a frame or shape decide which bit of the photo shows through, so the photo sits neatly inside the frame instead of overlapping its edges. In Canva you drop a photo into a frame element and it clips automatically. In Procreate or Photoshop you put the photo above the frame shape and use a clipping mask so the photo only appears inside that shape.

    If masking feels fiddly the first time, start with one framed photo per page. Get comfortable with the move, then add more.

    A finished 12 by 12 digital scrapbook page with a patterned background, two masked photos in frames and a few layered decorations
    A worked example of a digital scrapbook page: background paper, two photos masked into frames, and a handful of elements to tie the corners together.

    Step 5: layer transparent PNG elements

    Elements are the small decorations that pull a page together. Think leaves, ribbons, tape strips, little illustrations, word art. They come as transparent PNG files, which means they have no white box around them and sit cleanly over whatever is underneath.

    Add them on layers above your photos. A few pointers that keep a page from looking cluttered:

    • Tuck a couple of elements slightly behind a photo frame so they look layered rather than stuck on.
    • Group your decorations near the corners or along one edge instead of scattering them everywhere.
    • Repeat a colour from your photos in the elements you choose, so the whole page feels like it belongs together.

    Restraint reads better than piling on every sticker you own. Three or four well placed pieces usually beat a dozen.

    Step 6: add journaling and text

    A digital scrapbook page tells you more in a year if it has a few words on it. Add a text layer and write the date, the place, or a short line about what was happening. This is the journaling.

    Keep it readable. Pick a clear font for anything you actually want to read, and save the fancy script for a title or a single word. Dark text on a light patch, or light text on a dark patch, so it does not fight the background. If your paper is busy behind the words, put a soft shape or a semi-transparent band under the text to lift it off the pattern.

    Step 7: save, export and back it up

    When the page looks right, flatten it into a single image to share. Export as a JPG if you want a smaller file for posting online, or a PNG if you want the sharpest quality. Export at the full 3600 pixel size and you can use the page anywhere from a phone screen to a photo book.

    Then back it up. Save the finished image and, if your app allows, keep the layered working file too so you can tweak the page later. Send both to cloud storage or an external drive. A digital scrapbook only exists as files, so a second copy somewhere else is what keeps it safe.

    Putting your digital scrapbook together

    The slowest part of a first page is usually hunting for a background, a frame and a set of elements that actually match. Starting from a themed kit like the New Stories digital scrapbook bundle skips that step, because the papers, frames and PNG elements are already designed to sit together. You drop them onto your 12 by 12 canvas and the colours and style line up on their own.

    Once you have made one page, the rest come quickly. The steps stay the same every time: blank square, background, photos in frames, a few elements, a line of journaling, then save and back up. Open your app tonight and make a single digital scrapbook page. That first one teaches you more than any amount of reading.

  • What Is Digital Scrapbooking? An Easy Beginner’s Guide for 2026

    What Is Digital Scrapbooking? An Easy Beginner’s Guide for 2026

    You’ve probably heard the term digital scrapbooking and wondered what it actually means. Is it just making a photo book? Is it hard? Do you need to be good at design software? Short answers: no, no, and no.

    This is a start-here guide for anyone who’s curious. By the end you’ll know what digital scrapbooking is, how it’s different from the paper kind and from an automatic photo book, what you need to begin, and how a single page comes together layer by layer.

    To try it, start with a few digital scrapbook papers as page backgrounds.

    What digital scrapbooking actually is

    Digital scrapbooking is building memory pages on a screen instead of with paper and glue. You take your photos, arrange them on a background, add decorative bits around them, write a few lines about the day, and save the finished page as an image. The whole thing lives on your device. Nothing gets cut, stuck, or spilled.

    A page usually comes out square, something like a 30x30cm layout, though you can work at any size you like. You make it in an app you probably already have or can download in a minute, using the same photos sitting in your camera roll right now.

    How it’s different from paper scrapbooking

    Paper scrapbooking means physical supplies: card, patterned sheets, stickers, a trimmer, adhesive, a drawer full of bits. Digital scrapbooking swaps all of that for files. A patterned sheet becomes a background image. A sticker becomes a small graphic you drag onto the page. If you don’t like where something sits, you move it. If you change your mind about a colour, you undo it. There’s no waste and no mess, and you can remake the same page five different ways without using up a single thing.

    How it’s different from an automatic photo book

    Those photo-book apps that drop your pictures into a template and spit out a finished book are quick, but you’re stuck with whatever layout the software picked. Digital scrapbooking is the opposite. You decide everything: which photo goes where, how big it sits, what surrounds it, what the page says. It takes a bit longer, and that’s the point. The page ends up looking like your memory rather than a factory template.

    What you need to start

    Digital scrapbooking needs less kit than you’d think. Four things, and you likely have most already.

    • A device. A tablet, phone, or computer all work. An iPad with a stylus is a favourite for a lot of people, but it’s not required.
    • An app. Procreate, Photoshop, and even GoodNotes all handle layouts. Canva is free and runs in a browser, so it’s an easy first stop.
    • Your photos. Whatever’s already on your device is fine.
    • A digital kit. This is a set of matching backgrounds (called papers) and small graphics (called elements) that you drop onto the page. Kits are what make a page look designed rather than plain.

    That last one is where a lot of beginners get stuck, so it’s worth understanding. A digital kit is a folder of image files: a handful of patterned or textured background papers, plus separate elements like frames, leaves, tape, labels, and little illustrations, each saved so it sits neatly on top of your page. Because everything in one kit is designed to go together, the colours already match and you don’t have to think about whether a green leaf clashes with a blue paper. You just pick and place.

    What a page is made of

    Every digital scrapbook page is built from layers, stacked one on top of the next like sheets of glass. Understanding the stack is the thing that makes it all click.

    • The background paper. This is the bottom layer, the surface everything else sits on. Usually a patterned or textured sheet from your kit.
    • Your photos. These go on top of the paper. One big photo, or a few smaller ones grouped together.
    • Elements. Frames around the photos, a sprig of foliage in a corner, a strip of tape holding a picture down, a label. These sit above the paper and around the photos, filling the empty space and tying it together.
    • Journaling. A few lines of text: the date, where you were, what happened, how it felt. This is the layer that turns a nice arrangement into an actual memory.

    Because each part is its own layer, you can move any one of them without disturbing the rest. Nudge a photo, swap a background, delete an element you’ve gone off. Nothing is permanent until you decide it is.

    A coastal digital scrapbooking page showing a background paper, a framed photo, scattered elements and a line of journaling stacked as layers
    One finished digital scrapbooking page, built from the same layers everyone starts with: paper on the bottom, photo, elements around it, and a few words at the end.

    Building your first digital scrapbooking page

    Here’s how the layers come together in practice. Open your app and make a new square canvas, roughly 30x30cm. Then work bottom to top.

    • Drop in a background paper from your kit. That’s your surface set.
    • Add a photo on top. Resize it, move it around, decide whether it sits centre or off to one side. Leave some breathing room; you’ll want space for the rest.
    • Bring in a few elements. Put a frame around the photo, tuck some foliage behind a corner, add a strip of tape across the top. Two or three touches is plenty for a first go. Resist the urge to fill every gap.
    • Write your journaling. A date and a sentence is enough. “First swim of the summer, freezing, worth it.”
    • Save the page as an image. Done. It lives in your photos now, ready to share or keep.

    Your first page won’t be perfect and that’s completely normal. The good news is that redoing it costs you nothing. Move things, try a different paper, swap the photo. Because it’s all digital, experimenting is the whole fun of it.

    Where to get the pieces

    The device and app are the easy part. The kit is what saves a beginner from staring at a blank canvas, because the papers and elements are already made to sit together. A themed set like the Weathered Tide digital scrapbook bundle gives you coordinated coastal papers and elements in one download, so your first digital scrapbooking page has matching parts before you’ve placed a single thing.

    That’s really all digital scrapbooking is. A device, an app, your photos, and a kit to pull from. Start with one page about one small day and see how it feels. Most people who try it once end up making a second before they’ve even finished the first.